Alter do Chão and Santarém: Where the Tapajós Meets the Amazon
Alter do Chão is a village in western Pará, where the clear waters of the Tapajós River meet a white-sand shoreline and the Amazon forest. Each dry season, the river retreats, exposing long freshwater beaches that have earned the village the nickname "Amazon Caribbean." It also has deep roots: a Borari settlement before the Portuguese arrived, a Jesuit mission, a river port in the rubber era, and home to the Sairé, one of the Amazon's oldest folk festivals. Today it faces the pressures common to the region, including drought, fire, and land speculation.